Follow as Adrian and Craig - friends for 40 years - embark on their endurance challenge walking the 230 miles from Fort William to Cape Wrath, raising funds for Stoke Mandeville Spinal Research

To donate to Adrian and Craig's challenge, please visit www.lifeafterparalysis.com/fortwilliamtocapewrath

  

Post Script - 1st June 2026,  Scottish Borders

A final update to conclude our journal.  After leaving Kinlochbervie quayside we headed north, past white washed steadings, onto Sandwood Bay, an isolated, expansive beach of golden sand, facing due west to the North Atlantic, famed for some of the tallest cliffs on the UK coastline, upwards of 900 ft and then onwards beyond steep sand dunes, accompanied by the sound of numerous skylarks and occasional golden plover.  Merging back into bog towards a tiny bothy, once inhabited by a loan hermit - he in occupation for some 32 years.  Our first glimpse being a chimney with smoke, spiralling upwards from a peat fire, a most welcome sight.  We were greeted by two brothers, related to the previous occupier who visit every two years with their sons to maintain family ancestry, a fire adding to the warmth, alongside the wonderful aroma of smokey peat. 
Finally, Sunday morning, leaving early we crossed the MoD range, as fog and rain descended, finally onto a rough track and rounding a corner, without realising Cape Wrath lighthouse appeared and our journey had come to an end.

Thank you to all of you, your support hugely appreciated over the past 19 days in what has been both physically and mentally challenging, an emotional rollercoaster that will be long remembered.
A&C

Day 19, 31st May - Sunday - Cape Wrath reached

The Cape Wrath light house now just metres away... https://youtu.be/infDM0xcr6o

 

 

Day 18, 30th May - Saturday

Saturday 30th in Kinlochbervie with new friends…the penultimate day… https://youtu.be/pbeyV9QlJSo 

Saturday 30th May.  Day 18
NW Sutherland 
After glorious blue skies earlier in the week, yesterday took a complete hammering with gale force winds, horizontal rain, (see video) but with little option other than to keep going, passing through the impressive Ray Forest Estate onwards to Rhiconich, where we pitched tents and settled in for a damp night.  There are a few pics but the weather not conducive to many more.  Today an early, v damp rise and on to Kinlochbervie, a tiny harbour, before heading back to the hills, our destination Sandwood Bay, an isolated beach some 10 km from the nearest highway.  So this comes to you from the wonderful Quay House Cafe - delicious breakfast we shared with the lovely Hannah, a Met police officer, also on the trail.  So, all being well, our penultimate day before crossing the MoD bombing range and on to the Cape Wrath lighthouse.  Again my thanks to you all for supporting Stoke Mandeville Spinal Research and wishing you all a wonderful weekend.  
A&C

Sandwood Bay https://youtu.be/t_bSVFOlOfA

Sandwood Bay – 8 miles from Cape Wrath https://youtu.be/URQlnDC17EQ

 

Day 17, 29th May - Friday

Friday morning – reflections on yesterday’s tough 13 hours of walking https://youtu.be/erbjqoMAbQc

Day 17 11 a.m. https://youtu.be/pV2bMYdaIGA

Rain and gales make it tough going! https://youtu.be/A9a9v-5C5Xc

NW Sutherland

Day 16, 28th May - Thursday

Day 16 https://youtu.be/HWkSW9jTdKk

Thursday 28th May, Day 16
Leaving Inchnadamph we headed northeast, a steep climb towards Cnoc an Droighinn, taking breakfast by Loch Fleddach Claire, thereafter another steep climb to 623m reaching white basalt rock scree, the heat radiating even at this height.  Nothing prepares for the new vista, the dramatic view of Amhainn a Loch Bhigg, a vast 3 km cliff of steely grey rock, upholding the glacial Loch nan Caorach, just spectacular.  Thereafter a steep descent Loch Beag, resting in Glencoul bothy before yet another steep ascent, crossing a spur below Beinn Aird da Loch and a precipitous descent to Glenda’s bothy, exhausted after 13 hours and some 18 miles.
A&C

     

Day 15, 27th May - Wednesday

Wednesday - good morning from Sutherland - the midges have found us https://youtu.be/xNvSkD_eV1o

Wednesday 27th May - Day 15
A gentle start walking further upstream of the River Oykell through forestry to reach Benmore Lodge, a beautiful highland house overlooking Loch Ailsh, thereafter, for the remainder of the day it was hard hill walking to the source of the Oykell.  You almost sense these hills haven’t changed since the end of the ice age, a land giants; cliffs, boulders, ravines and huge skies, deep blue withe occasional wisp of cloud, walking in ever increasing temperatures.  Finally reaching the saddle we entered the Traight valley, descending to Inchnadamph, vast rock strata, similar in colour to limestone, the Traight water a beautiful, gurgling stream, not dissimilar to valleys in the Derbyshire/ Yorkshire dales.

Weds 27th 9am - A rest after walking beside the stunning Oykel river in Sutherland https://youtu.be/-4ukRzgEH9o

Pushing on past 16km and more of a climb to go before rest https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYXZdaq_W9c

Weds afternoon - making great progress and pushing on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atqx5LZBIFg

Nothing like the sound of rushing water https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjQQqD2JIQ

   

 

  

 

Day 14, 26th May - Tuesday

https://youtu.be/roFoEA5kbqo

Tuesday 26th May Day 14
At some point today we left the spectacular landscape of Ross-shire and moved northeast into Sutherland, descending past Gleann a Chadha Dhairg, a stunning glacial valley and into Glen Douchary, passing several waterfalls, each uniquely impressive - dramatic rock strata with the falls cascading into deep plunge pools, most inviting were it not for the temperature.  Thereafter Loch an Daimh appeared, deep blue water sparkling in the much welcome sunlight.  We hugged the shoreline to a bright green bothy for a much needed break and opportunity to dry out after a tumble crossing the Douchay water.

Thereafter we descended further along Abhainn water and into Oykel Bridge.  Tomorrow we head NE to the tiny settlement of Benmore, adjacent to Loch Ailsh.  So it’s been a long day but with some 65 miles remaining there’s a sense that with each passing day the end may just be within sight.
Adrian & Craig

Tuesday 10.30 a.m.- From Gully to Hill Loch with eyes on a bothy… https://youtu.be/uMqNci742Gc

Tuesday - spectacular waterfalls https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-7-GEBmY68

Day 13, 25th May - Monday

Monday, 25th May - Ross-shire
It is good to be back on the trail, a shorter walk today following the nearly 6 hour drive from the Borders.  Huge thanks to Stephen Munro and his wife at Clachan who were most generous in helping with our re-supply.  Just about to set off we met Scott Renwick who farms the Inverlael Glens, a notable breeder of North Country Cheviot ewes and Luing cattle, see pic.  Ascending from Loch Broom, (sea level), to 472m, just below Beinn Bhreac, a steep climb, zigzagging eventually above the tree line, much needed in easing us back to longer days ahead.  Tents pitched on an open plateau with a strong cool breeze.  A long day tomorrow as we head for Oykel Bridge…

16th May to 24th May

Adrian and Craig had to pause their journey to Cape Wrath to return home for family reasons.  They felt great determination to complete the expedition and resolved to continue it.    

Sunday 24th May - Roxburghshire
We have, after some discussion, found a brief window to continue our journey to Cape Wrath, leaving the Borders for Ross-shire early tomorrow, to complete the trail over the next eight days.  Thank you for your recent kind words and ongoing support, we much look forward to concluding our journey to Cape Wrath.
With all best wishes
Adrian & Craig

Day 12, 15th May - Friday

Friday morning, 8.30 am https://youtu.be/HM-Vwr04fYU

Friday 15th May - Ross-shire
We left the slate grey hardness of Amhain Loch an Nid, heading directly north into a strong wind, where at one point sitting with backs to a hail storm until blowing through.  Just before our final ascent three Whitebred Shorthorn cows appeared with two young calves, remarkably the first real livestock seen in 12 days, shortly followed by the wonderful Eric Ross, (see pic), who farms these local glens, what we would describe in farming terms as hard hill country, probably as challenging an environment to raise livestock I’ve ever witnessed, we shared mutual thoughts of hill breed genetics, the White Shorthorn suited to such extremes.  By late afternoon descending into Inverbroom, a small settlement sheltered by steep valleys at the head of Loch Broom, transitioning from hill to woodland and bright green in-bye pasture, whitewashed steadings and cottages.
Sadly, due to my father’s failing health, the journey to Cape Wrath has been paused but with an unflinching commitment to completing in September.  My thanks to the two taxi drivers, who took us to Inverness and on to Fort William, arriving in the Borders early this morning.  It has been a remarkable twelve days; we made it to Inverbroom, walked some 120 miles, observed the most dramatic and beautiful wilderness, seen remarkable wildlife, drank delicious water - sometimes crystal clear,  sometimes peaty brown, met wonderful people - a reminder of the journalist Kate Adie, her autobiography The Kindness of Strangers.  Craig surmised the trail as one that gives you a real kicking but the reward uniquely special.  Thank you to all of you for your financial support and wonderful words of encouragement, please do share any of the content with friends and family - it is not about us, we are just the messengers for Stoke Mandeville Spinal Research.  Finally, my thanks to Craig; one of the toughest, most generous individuals you could ever meet, it’s been an absolute blast, “hard yaka” indeed.  So this brings to close Capter I but with Chapter II to follow in the autumn.
God bless
A

Loch Fada https://youtu.be/0H0yDnckAZo

Day 11, 14th May - Thursday

Video:  'onwards and upwards' https://youtu.be/F4ry1GQfDi0

Thursday morning saw Adrian and Craig set off from Kinlochewe (7° feels like -1°) for a 3 day climb / walk over the mountains to Clachan, Loch Broom where their parcel to re-provision awaits. The forecast talked about 50 mph winds in the north.  They expect the journey to take 3 days over the steep terrain.  

Day 10, 13th May - Wednesday:  REACHING HALF WAY TONIGHT

Video:  'Day 10' https://youtu.be/Q318eay5fRk

Well today was a slightly shorter day, leaving Craig (small steading) we headed directly north with spectacular views of Beinn Liath Mhor and Squrr Dunn - formidable hills,; dark , desolate but hugely impressive.  Now in Kinlochewe and the end of Day 10 there is recurring theme of huge skies and hills, where the pictures reflect the course of each day.  It is true wilderness country, not dissimilar to Patagonia - I was fortunate to visit many years ago, particularly where our decent reaches a sea loch - dark green sea but without the icebergs.  Craig sees similarities with Otago and Southland.  So with another 10-11 days to go we’re having to plan the most efficient route north… easier said than done.  I hope you enjoy the pictures and again my thanks for all your support.  A&C

 

Day 9, 12th May - Tuesday

10.42 a.m. a brief message in from Adrian by SMS, the first news or sighting since Sunday midday:

"We're all OK, just got a wee signal v wet and windy!"

3 p.m. a satellite view shows the terrain Adrian and Craig are navigating.

 

Then finally some news at 10.30 pm and a photo dump from the last couple of days,

"Well good evening everyone, we’ve finally arrived in Craig, a tiny settlement amounting to 4-5 cottages but our first opportunity to reconnect with the outside world.  Since Sunday we climbed to the Falls of Glomach, one of the highest and most isolated waterfalls in Britain, a 12 mile, 6 hour trek up a steep valley, followed by a further 6 hours down what can only be described as the most immense gully, some 370 ft deep, with an almost shear drop, which you traverse along a extraordinarily narrow path on the edge of the gully.  It was a relief to finally reach the bottom but really this has to be one of the most remarkable natural features I’ve ever seen in the British Isles, some photos to follow but due to the appalling weather and trying to stay in one piece, many more would have been taken.  With the light fading and some distance from our intended destination we bunked down in a shearing shed - I’ve seen a few in my time but never anticipated sleeping in one..  but it was dry and we were pretty well sodden.  Another long climb the following day, finally reaching a wee bothy were we met Brenda, a lovely South African lady who joined us on our 15 mile route to Craig, along Loch Calavie.  It feels like we’ve had the kitchen sink thrown at us today; a dusting of snow, heavy rain, hailstones, sunshine and even a rainbow.  Tomorrow marks our tenth day and hope to be  approximately half way to Cape Wrath.  Some pics/ videos to follow but if you’ve only just joined us please do take a look at the Stoke Mandeville Spinal Research website that covers our journey to date.  Please do pass the web link to anyone who may interested in our fundraising- a huge thank you to everyone who’s donated and your wonderful words of support.  All best wishes Adrian & Craig"

Tuesday morning, meeting Brenda from South Africa: https://youtu.be/P9OBIN5-qQc

Loch Calavie: https://youtu.be/zt3Jd3AxrSo

Day 8, 11th May - Monday

In the shearing shed, Monday morning: https://youtu.be/sPYpkgtXHxc

Day 7, 10th May - Sunday

"Good morning everyone, a cold night, frost on the tent but we’re now on our way…"

Sunday morning departing Shiel Bridge, Day 7: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8zJt6klajU

   

Sun afternoon 4.30 pm – wet and three hours to the bothy: https://youtu.be/EPM_kvqRc3o

Waterfall: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyc2x1ozZ_w

Sunday evening: https://youtu.be/NKHINHCMFJg

Adrian and Craig found a shearing shed to sleep in.

Day 6, 9th May - Saturday

Cold Fri night – Sat morning:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQmwTs6oDqo Saturday morning -  "Another big climb ahead" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1N5wCczDcY

Sat afternoon – Hard Yakka:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hms4w4BkDgI

"Well good evening everyone, we’ve now re entered WiFi land, having completed yet another huge climb this morning, one that never seemed to end, much of it off-piste with no obvious track.  This is pristine landscape, which constantly surprises, spectacular views which genuinely take your breath away, although one appears to be permanently out of breath… We slept in a rather dilapidated garden shed, probably the coldest most uncomfortable night ever experienced but it kept us dry, although relived to move on.  3.c this morning with a brief snow flurry at the top of Squirna Forcan, 821 m., whilst descent was a bit hairy.  We’ve now arrived at Shiel Bridge, situated by another coastal loch and found a tiny campsite which  at this juncture is the height of luxury.  Thank you all for your recent kind words of encouragement and support for Stoke Mandeville Spinal Research, it genuinely does spur us on - will be writing to you all once we’ve finished… assuming we do!.  Some pics and videos to follow, just to give a flavour of where we are.  With best wishes to you all, Adrian & Craig"

       

   

"Today’s trek and tomorrow’s plan, we hope to reach Loch Calavie…"

Day 5, 8th May - Friday

"Well good morning everyone, it’s Friday, (day 5) and we’re back in contact via a tiny cafe at Kinloch Houn, so a few videos to follow.  Thank you all so very much much for your support… we’re still in one piece, just!  A"

Fri morning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxcaSsLaHvo

Scenic gorge Friday evening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEQjcP7y7eo

     

Along the way Adrian and Craig came across two German fellows called Herbert and Otto.  This was funny because Adrian's two wee training partners (terriers) are called Herbie and Otto, who had valiantly skipped along the St Cuthbert's Way together, 20 miles at a time.

Friday pm "A few more pics,  about to head up to Squrna Forcan,  apparently one of the toughest climbs to 821 m, sun shining once again…"

And at the top, behold a shelter...

"Yes, we ‘slept’ in that shed… it just needs the sound track from a spaghetti Western" In the bothy:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBDhBtSw2Xc

Day 4, 7th May

Up high https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-CFWdxKSjA

Day 3, 6th May - radio silence, out of range

Day 2, 5th May

A bracing wake-up call from the highland air broke a good night's sleep.  Porridge on the billy was welcome and set the chaps up for a 15 mile day.  A midday stop for soup on the pebbled shore of a crystal burn allowed dewy tents to be spread out to dry in the breezy sunshine.  Craig recommended the "cracking swimming holes" to his cold-water plunging friends.

The heavy packs must have made for steady going.  Adrian's message came through at 8 pm and they hit the sack promptly, "We arrived at Glenfinnan this evening after 9.5 hours; a tough climb and tricky descent, we were joined by a cuckoo who followed us most of the morning.  The mountain streams are crystal clear and beautiful.  Tomorrow will see 17 miles to Eilen Touran, a mountain both by an isolated beach.  Our packs weigh in at 20 kgs which is proving quite a challenge…."

Expedition Prep and Packing

       

To donate to Adrian and Craig's challenge, please visit www.lifeafterparalysis.com/fortwilliamtocapewrath